DAY THIRTEEN Sept. 29

Had a fitful night last night. Hot/cold/sweaty/achy. Usually these hot/cold flashes are nerves regrowing. It seems to be common throughout the ward. My long-deadened toes are warming up, and had to take off my socks, because it was driving me nuts. I just hope I regain some dexterity and feeling in my fingers also. If I could play my guitar again, I'd say this was definitely worth it.

Got up and walked around the ward at 5AM, to work out some of my aches, but the night nurse chased me back to the room. Rooms are emptying out with a new crop of patients coming next week. They repaint and work on the rooms between patients.

Next week is the National Holiday, and they have strung lights across the streets like Christmas. Sally's out shopping again, this time with Norma, David's (spinal cord) nurse.

Well, Sally's back, with some goodies. Turns out Norma's quite the bargainer, which is handy here. Took a hellacious cab ride back. Seems cabbies in every large city like to show of their bravado to the tourists. They give you a nasty look if you try to use a seat belt.

Hal described the traffic here as a ballet. Streets are wide and impeccably groomed and maintained, but they're used for thousands of buses, cabs, private autos (always metallic colors or black, ) bicycles, or hand-pulled carts. Everyone seems to go the same speed, lots of honking. but no road rage or impatience - just to let you know you're seen. Lane changes aren't signalled, just done; frequenty. Pedestrians DON'T have the right of way, but will stop traffic if they have to. Haven't heard any accidents, or squeaking tires, although that does happen. 'Stale' green traffic lights blink a few times before turning red. What a great idea! The buses seem to be color-coded, and there are lots of ladies strolling with equally colorful parasols.

No rain here in the two weeks since we arrived. Very unusual, but just like home.