FIRST EPILOGUE Oct. 25
This is a summary of some of our experiences in Shenzhen and my stem cell treatments. For a complete day-by-day experience see entire blog.

EXPECTATIONS
I have had Machado-Joseph diesase symptoms for about 16 years. My CAG repeat is 72, I have late-onset MJD. I was looking for a 5-10% improvement.

CARE, COST & CONVENIENCE
Even though conditions are spartan by American standards, risk of infection appears minimal, especially in comparison to Western hospitals, where risk of infection is high. Rooms are cleaned daily. Blood pressure taken twice daily, tempeature once. MRI, EKG, and two sonograms were also included in the price. The current cost is $17K for four injections and a month's care and rehab at the hospital, $20K for five injections. I recommend five injections.

TREATMENT METHOD
The treatment evolves over time, so my treatment may not be the same as yours. The most consistent features are the injections, which are normally four, 10,000,000 umbilical (cord blood) stem cells each. Sounds like a lot, but in volume is probably a cubic mm or so, suspended in a 1 cc nutrient solution. However, these grow and multiply once in place, especially neurons, which are large. This growth can take up to three months, according to doctors, both here and abroad.

The injections are administered in two ways: Intrevenously or lumbar punch. With the blood-brain barrier, few of the stem cells reach the brain or cerebellum with the IV method, but are more effective for joint and musscle problems, eyesight, etc.; wherever blood flows. Since 90% of cord blood stem cells are hematopoeitic (pre-disposed to become blood, muscle or immune cells,) what you essentially get is high-tech blood doping. In fact I and others receiving IV injections got a perceptible "rush" that lasts for hours, making sleep improbable. IVs are given in your room, with a small IV of Nerve Growth Factor, to help coax the stem cells into neurons. A yellow fluid, NGF takes about 1/2 hour, and then you're free to move about.

Lumbar punches are more elaborate, and more effective for ataxians and brain or spinal-cord damage. The stem cells are injected into the spinal fluid. Your bed is wheeled into a clean room, where a Doctor does the lumbar punch. You curl up into a tight fetal position on your left side,the Dr. probes your #1 lumbar under a local anesthetic, finds the proper position, removes a volume of spinal fluid, and then injects an equal amount of stem cell suspension. You are also given the IV bag of NGF. You are then instructed to lie on your back for six hours, moving as little as possible to minimize spinal fluid leakage.

Any thrashing about or gross movements may cause leakage of some fliud, resulting in the dreaded spinal headache. The hard bed bothers some, but the boredom bothers all. A iPod or audio book help-s.You are instructed to fast for three hours prior, but will need to pee sometime. You want to avoid #2 for awhile. At the three or four hour mark, you can pee, (and snack) but resume the position afterwards.The spinal fluid cleanses and rejuvenates anew in three or four days.

I got three spinal and two IV injections. I could have arranged for all five to be spinals. The extra injections cost extra, but I recommend five or six. Many patients stay for 8 or more. You can also arrange sedation before the punch, which is easier on you and the Doctor, and makes it easier to lie still.

THERAPY
There is some question whether any immprovements from the procedure are the result of the stem cells, or the intense physical therapy. My answer is: Probably both; and the PT isn't that intense. The therapy is to enhance and train the new cells.

The physical therapy, or SPOT (for something (unknown) physical and occupational therapy) is individualized, but for me, consisted of morning and afternon sessions. Morning was "voice" which consists of an electrical impulse collar worn for 1/2 hour to improve swallowing & speech by passive stimulation of throat muscles. followed by 1/2 hr of acupuncture,and the 1/2 hr. of leg and arm massage. It was easy to nap through most of that. Afternoon sessions had me on the exercise bike for 15 min, walking and turning, and the rocker board for 5-10 minutes each. Not much, but I walked better every time I did it. Spinal cord & paralysis patients get maximum attention.

The acupuncture and massage have been added to the regime in the past few months. Other components may be added/subtracted in the future based upon success or failure with various ailments.

RESULTS AS OF 10/24
Dr. Susan Perlman at UCLA, an acknowedged expert neurologist specializing in MJD, examined me using a standardized MJD exam just before leaving for China and just after return, a month later. I scored higher on the return, despite severe fatigue and jet lag. Progress continues, and Dr. Perlman wants a re-exam at six months.

Would I go back? Yes. Probably in 12-18 months. There are lot of unmeasurasble intangibles: better energy, people say I talk stronger and seem more alive. I certianly have a renewed outlook and hopefulness.Most patients see some sort of improvement somewhere in 10 days or so from the first injection. For me working on emails one night, I realized I had full feeling in my feet, which had gradually gone numb 12 years ago. Unfortunatelythis disappeared afterward for the duration of my China stay, but have since sputtered back to life off and on for the last few days, more so on the left than right. This is accompaniewd by a cold feeling that can't be warmed when they go numb, again followed by a period of warm, nearly full feeling and no cold. I am hopeful this resolves soon, as it is driving me nuts. What I would dearly love is some relief from the similar neuropathy in my hands. Occasonally I fancy an improvement in my left hand (I'm left-handed), but I think it's just wishful thinking.

Walking and Balance? Lousy, but I'm still jet lagged, and have drug hangover from sleeping pills. Ask again in a week or so.

DAY 32 BACK HOME Oct 19
Flight back was OK. Got to the airport (Hong Kong) late, but fortunately the flight was delayed an hour. I got wonderful wheelchair assistance from Cathay Pacific. They wheeled me through passport control, and the long trip to the gate. First on the plane.

We did everything suggested to avoid jet lag-slept, hydrated, stretched, but still arrived in LA crushingly bushed. Sally was hauling two suitcases, laptop, purse, and holding me up steady with both arms. We had to rent a minivan to get to Dr. Perlman's at UCLA for the post-stem cell exam. She had cleared her schedule just for me! She shot more video and did the same exam as she did before. I was sure I'd do much worse with the jet lag, but somehow mustered 30 minutes of strength and cogent conversation to score some more points than before. She thought my walking and steadiness were improved, eyes were better, the "buzzing"
(High-frequency tremor) in my hands was gone. Measureable improvement!

My shoulder still hurts mucho from the fall, and I'm still mighty tired. Sally's still in bed. She certainly deserves the rest. Got up this morning, and took a long shower, got dressed with every intention of coming to work, but instead of waking up, I just kept getting more and more fatigued. Finally gave in, but tried anew about 2PM, and made it in.

Well, I've put in about six bours, mostly talking to the crew about the trip, and what needs to be done at work. Back home now. I can tell, after initial wobblyness, I'm walking better, feet closer together, turning more confidently, and the 'fog' is gone again. I can stand, feet together, rock solid, seemingly forever. My legs stll get cold at night, so it turns out that's neurological. We'll see if it evolves into anything.

I'm going to blog less often now, maybe once a week. Yes, I'll return to China. I'm happy with the results, and have turned the clock back a few years, which was the goal, but I keep having this craving for noodles!

DAY 31 LAST DAY Oct 17

Didn't sleep much last night, as Jon predicted, with my stem cell IV. He also predicted my shoulder pain would diminish, which it has, but I'll still have it checked out by a doctor in Tucson.

Went to lunch at a swank dimsum restaurant with Grace. Filled us up with all manner of stuffed Catonese dumplings; $10. Talked with her at length, and found out much about her, Jon, Beike Labs, China...very informative.

We leave here at about 10AM tomorrow. Most stuff is packed & ready. Sad to miss the nurses, staff, other patients and China, but glad to be getting home after a month. I'll probably be back sometime, but further north, at a new hospital in Qingdao.

Gave out our card packs. One went to Dr. Leung who said the new stem cells will continue to reproduce and mature for 3 months or so, so keep working them, and don't just sit around.

DAY THIRTY Oct. 16

Still mighty sore, But one more day... Went down to 1st rehab session-acupuncture and massage, and that's it until stem cells come, supposedly this afternoon.

We're trying to pass out gifts, in the form of card packs. Gifts are a very impotant gesture here, and we don't have enough. We have resorted the cards and needed some ribbon to tie them together. Ribbon seems very hard to come by. Deb finally found some for us in Hong Kong at a small Hallmark store. She also found me some ibruprofen, but that was also difficult to find. Guess the Chinese feel no pain. Confucius said Life is Suffering. If they have a problem, they treat it with acupuncture. They also seem to prefer these hard beds, and all have strong quads from these toilets. No satellite dishes, though. Must be prohibited. That means no Al Jazzera. Pity. I guess they have to, get anti-American propaganda from somewhere else.

After being here a month, we see lots of business opportunities. I'm sure they will be addressed, and with the speed of change here, in 3-5 years the present times will seem awfully primitive.

Stem cells are here. More later.

Well, threy're still giving spinals. I got my IV, but all the nurses are helping, so I'm still tethered. Deb had her sedation, and was hallucinating. Very funny, I'm told. Sally visited her room, Deb said "Wal-Mart?" Sally chuckled and said "Sure, Deb, we'll go to Wal-Mart."

Nightime now. Turns out the IV got clotted, so they had to poke me again. Couldn't find a suitable vein, so Sally pointed out one on my thumb, which they usually avoid, because it is PAINFUL.

Feeling emboldened, we took a cab to the famous Sea World, an area of many international restaurants and shops, catering to Westerners, although I didn't see any. Sea World is near the bay, in downtown Shenzhen, which looked like Manhattan to me, except more trees. Lots of animated, colorful signs; big buildings. A 15 minute cab ride to Sea World was $3.

Now, I would never even attempt to go anywhere at night before, but I have some newfound confidence (abiility?) and did OK. Sally's been wanting a steak, so we both had a filet. Napkins and everything!

It's too bad I can't try out my walking on some of the sights. We have to leave too soon. Maybe tomorrow. We'll give out our gifts tomorrow and have the last rehab. My body's covered with bruises..from the fall, from the acupuncture, from massages, from IVs....I guess I'm just a puss.

DAY TWENTY NINE Oct. 15
Shoulder sore today. This is getting old. The trick with the long pants worked. Pretty steamy outside. Some rain.

Finally got up the gumption to go for a walk in the garden, just as it started to rain. Waited in the lobby, then went outside. It was cooler and pleasant. While we waited, we did some people watching. Staring is not consdered rude here, and I've been getting plenty of stares, so turnabout....

This is a nation built on conformity, but individuality is starting to emerge. An awful lot of the women are dressed to the nines, with a lot of high heels, and bright colors. It wasn't so long ago that everyone was in khaki. Sally said she's even seen some Goths. Well, they already have the black hair! Wait till the Olympics get here in two years. Of course, if you're one in a million
there are 150 just like you here.

Another ataxia patient and her father arrived today from Jersey. Her father, a doctor has it too. Unknown type. Deb arrived back today with her husband Peter, a pilot for Cathay Pacific.
Deb thought my speech was clearer. That's six ataxians on the floor now. Well, not "on the floor", yet...

Stem cells tomorrow afternoon...

DAY TWENTY EIGHT Oct 14

Workmen came in and installed an elaborate grab bar system in the bathroom, obviously custom made for these rooms. With the mats, a whole lot less dangerous. They're doing it in all the rooms. See what I did?

Tomrrow's another rest day (Sunday), and Deb returns.

Been freezing my legs and feet at night, while my torso sweats. The AC in this room freezes or heats you depending on where you sit. I'm thinking of wearing long pants and no shirt to bed tonight. It's a few degrees cooler at the foot of the bed.

We've noticed most all the cars here are late-model, and make up about 75% of traffic. No pickups or SUVs. These are all first-cars, and cost probably 1/2 million RMB. There are a lot of cabs, buses, bikes and people walking, but there must be a couple hundred thousand millionaires here. They'll probably have a good used-car market in a few years, but also worse smog and parking. I'll bet the country goes to nuclear power soon. Works for N. Korea! I hear Beijing is really smoggy, and they'll need to address that.

We're planning on going out tomorrow as long as I can hold out.

DAY TWENTY SEVEN Oct. 13

Hello Muddah, hello Faddah....shoulder improving a little. Had an iffy 1st session of rehab. Got a massage first, then acupuncture. The massage got one leg into a "restless leg" mode. Not too good with needles in ya.

Second session went well. Jon was there and we talked a while. did all the exercizes, including the mini-bike. Dr. Shu told Jon I was doing pretty well until the fall.

Did exceptionally well on the parallel bar walker. My "fog" is gone today. That's a kind of a dizzyness and unclarity I usually feel, absent on "good days." Hopefully, it's a "feature" and not a "bug" as Microsoft says.

Jon is concerned that we continue to communicate after returnng home. It's in our best interest, I think for future MJD patients.

Evidently, there is a history of jet lag and illness. Not surprising. I know from experience now that continuity is important for awhile. We're reading up on how to avoid it, especially once we get to LA.

DAY TWENTY SIX Oct. 12

Woke up early, feel steadier today. Still shoulder pain. Rumor has that the MIA Jon may show up soon. He is the brains behind this venture, and the floor has been in need of a good translator for weeks. Grace, the #2, has been gone too. Sunny, Camillia, and the Drs and nurses all get by, but lots of things are lost in translation or are not even attempted.

This bad wing prevents meaningful therapy. My extra injection will be Monday, and I'll get it as an IV. We leave two days later. I'll get more improvement at home. In familiar surroundings. Dr. Perlman says it should take six months to a year, though it's hard not to be jealous of Maxie, with his immediate improvements.

Deb and mom Jean left today. Deb will be back in four days. Jean's going home to Vancouver, BC.

The doctor and a bevy of nurses came in and did a neurological exam. Dr. Yang brought a camera, but didn't take any pictures.

Went down to rehab at 3. Worked hard, but maybe set my shoulder back a day or so. Pretty painful, but gotta do it. It's unlikely to heal before I get home anyway.

The four Chinese dinners shown lasted two days--about $3,50

DAY TWENTY FIVE Oct. 11
Still sore and unsteady today, but stumbled down to rehab 1st session. Dr Zhang checked my shoudler, said it's just muscle pain now. Might be 10 days or so. Two more patients from Ireland arrived today with Freidreich's Ataxia, like Deb.

VERY smoggy out today. Can't see much.

Went to Voice at 2, and made my first venture into the gym in a week. Even got on the rickety miniature bike. Getting some exercize makes me less wobbly. Sally has gone to McDonald's for some MEAT.

Although I'm not doing that well, we see success all around. One of the Austrian babies, a one year old named Max, could only lie flat on his back, making little eye contact. He's a sweetie pie though, smiling when tickled. Three weeks later, he can hold his head up, is trying to talk, looking more like a normal 1 year-old. He was actually a triplet, whose twin sister is fine at home with Dad, but whose other sibling died at birth. It's good to see Maxie doing well.

DAY TWENTY FOUR Oct. 10

Stem cells yesterday. Schedule mixup had me downstairs, when they had me scheduled first up to get a spinal, so instead they took Deb first. After an hour with Dr. Zhang, she was wheeled out in tears. Gabi had no problems, but spinal cord patients usually don't.

I was next. After Dr. Zhang (who kindly asked if I wanted to roll on my uninjured right side) fiddled for about 20 minutes, she sent for some sleeping medicine, which was administered thru an IV. Next thing, I was snoring loudly in my room, (movie,) back a little sore. I definitely want that again! If I was Deb, I'd insist.

Woke up early - no headache, but have the usual uncontrollable stretching.

They had 9 patients for stem cells yesterday, probably more today. They have at least 15 patients on the floor now. Deb and Jean are leaving again Thursday, back again Sunday. We will leave a week from tomorrow.

My shoulder still keeps me out of rehab. Concerning. It's getting better, but it may take a few more days. I need to teach these new cells how to behave, physically. Sally's been washing me, drying me, dressing me, feeding me and holding me when I walk (like she could arrest a fall.) I don't know if that's too good, as doing all those things by myself helps calibrate me for the day. Still, I musn't fall this last week.

Sally's out shopping with Deb and Jean, her mom, for the second time today! The first trip was to Wal-Mart, now at Lo Wu mall. I feel real unsteady, so I don't dare leave the room. Hope she buys some movies. Meantime, I listen to my iPod, and blog wth one hand.

Everyone's telling me to keep my head up, but it's hard for an ex-artist to get out of a funk. I need a sign, or I'll cut my ear off LOL.

Already thinking about the workload when we get back. It will be Christmastime ordering, Jack Schmitt booksigning, cooler weather, understandable TV, movies, college basketball, jet lag...I'm proud of our crew for handling everything for this long. Good work gang!

DAY TWENTY THREE Oct. 9

Nurse Irene came into take blood pressure this morning. I was shirtless, and she saw I now have a large bruise from my left collarbone to my xiphoid process (Nathan knows where that is) It looks pretty alarming. She sent Dr. Zhang, who administred my stem cells last week, in for a look. Now that someone knows and understands, I'll leave it in their hands. The bruise may be the result of my sleeping on my wounded side last night. For practice, and because I'm real tired of sleeping on my back. Makes me snore.

One thing we haven't seen are 'Nurse Rachets' at this hospital. My last visit to the Northwest Hospital and shop of horrors produced many characters: the night nurse, who took my polite refusal for a breathing treatment at 3am as a personal affront, refused me further treatments (I was a pneumonia patient.) Good for me they only work three days a week. I was on a 'spectrum' of antibiotics to try and knock out this stubborn pneumonia. One nurse saw to it I was administered the most caustic antibiotic through my hand IV at midnight, for a week, on a slow drip. Burned like Hell for two hours. Forget about sleep or sympathy but, something finally worked. After they cut my chest open to scrape my lungs, the intensive care nurse thought I was such a baby that she put the call button out of reach, drew the curtains and closed the door on my cries for help. Another nurse took out my pain control epidural, but didn't tell anyone. Two hours later....well I could go on and on. I'm sure many readers have had similar tales. American hospitals...you can keep them.

This is really a piece of cake by comparison. The nurses are all young, and pretty for the most part. They'll listen to you but don't usually understand; which is better than if they understand but don't care.

Well, stem cells in an hour or so. More tomorrow.

DAY TWENTY TWO Oct. 8
Deb and her mom Jean are back. Good to see them. My iPod is back also. They did come in and installed a green rubber bath mat wall to wall, and grab bars are coming. Nurse Irene, who is the best English speaker, explained that Chinese wear flip-flops in the shower, which seems awfully smart, now that I think about it. The bathroom floor is some kind of lightly textured,
absorbent stone tiles, but the walls are slick marble. Not good for an ataxic.
Well, stem cells tomorrow. Shoulder still hurting about the same. Couldn't make anyone understand, so I just have to grin and bear the pain. I just hope I don't whimper like a baby.

Our mushroom pizza just arrived from Papa John's. mmmm.

DAY TWENTY ONE Oct. 7
Tough night. Stomach, back, and neck muscles were all pulled in the fall, and spasming. Skipped morning rehab, but will try to make afternoon. I need some activity.

Got a nice note from niece Breanna, with pix. Glad to hear brother Mark is running. At our age, health is the most important thing, and if you're able to get into shape, go for it! And yes, Jim the DVDs have a 'live' laugh track.

Very hard to type or eat with the wrong hand. Forgive my brevity.

Well, skipped afternoon also. Just not up to it. Sally and I did go down to the garden, which we have been looking at from high above. It's very nice and there was a cool breeeze blowing. We'll post some pix.

I may go for the next stem cells (monday) as an IV unless this shouder radically improves tomorrow. Very few stem cells make it to the brain in that case, but it is more systemic, and I won't have to lie on my back for six hours. It should heal up in time for a final spinal, next Monday.

DAY TWENTY Oct. 6

Sure enough, I felt like I was hit by a bus this morning. The xrays came back inconclusive. One Dr. saw a small fracture in my collarbone, the other didn't. Minor either way. I hope it heals enough by Monday, when I have to curl up into a tight ball for another injection.

Sally's making a trip to McDonald's for lunch. New patients include Katherine from SF, who brought son Lucas, a Hungarian woman making her third trip, and another Romanian family.

Deb and her Mom (and my iPod) will return Sunday.

I have to admit, these two days without rehab are completely boring, allowing some homesickness to creep in, along with some depression. I feel the pressure of a lot of people hoping I do well. I've got ten more days here to try. I guess having my feet back is pretty major, and I should be thankful. My thighs were cold this morning so maybe in a few days balance will improve.

Sally won't let me take a shower by myself anymore, after the fall, so she made me sit on the toilet, while she washed me down, like a pet. Pretty humiliating, but I musn't fall anymore. At least at home the bathroom is equipped with plenty of grab bars. And I use 'em. The Drs. prescribed some more myserious medicine in capsule form, and it appears to be helping. They also jabbered about the bathroom-shower, so I expect some grab bars will appear soon; hopefully before I leave. They constantly upgrade these rooms.

The DVD "movies" here are all pirated--badly. Some guy sits in the back of the theatre, with a camcorder. The result is a dark picture, lousy sound, skips and dropouts, and silhouettes moving across the screen. A lot of people walked out on Ultraviolet. I don't blame them. We'd buy first quality, if we knew where to look. The remotes are all in inscrutable Chinese. Nevertheless, it's all there is. so we keep watching them.

DAY NINETEEN Oct. 5
Well, looks like today will be a lost day. Was ready to take a shower and head down to rehab, but they came in with the IV. An hour later, I was late again for rehab, so I took a quick shower but fell as I was drying off. Hit hard, could have been a disaster! Wrenched my shoulder so Sally is typing this. Dr Liang checked me out. But I'm pretty useless for rehab today. That's the third fall I've taken here. I'm trying to be careful. Was a lot more stable today. Still am, actually. Feeling more stable is a double-edged sword, though. You make moves (like turning too fast) that are reserved for non-ataxics, and you lose your balance. Your body remembers too easily how things used to be.

Signed up for a fifth injection, two days before we leave. Which is less than two weeks now. Booked the airline ticket to Tucson, and made an appointment with Dr. Perlman at UCLA, between arrival at LAX and departure for home.

LATER, It's about 8 PM and the children have gone to bed. The ward has quickly transformed today, with colored interlocking rubber mats on the floors and toy cars and scooters. Two children from E. Europe arrived today. Two more tomorrow.

My collarbone has swelled up, and bruises are starting to appear. I was sent to X-Ray for a picture of my shoulder. I don't need this. I dread trying to sleep tonight, and more dread waking up tomorrow. But I feel pretty good otherwise!

DAY EIGHTEEN Oct. 4

Woke up a 6AM, due to too much rest yesterday. No headache, back a little sore. Feet are warm, nearly 100%. Calves and shins warm too. I could never tell if they were involved, due to the neuropathy in my hands, also. But I may feel Dr. Shu's needles today.

Back from rehab. Dr. Shu was ready and quickly adminstered painlessly. Feel somewhat woozy. Fell once in my room, injuring Sally more than I. Maybe I missed the four days of rehab. Maybe it's the start of another physical revelation. Maybe I just need a nap. Back to rehab again at 3PM.

Jon, if you're reading this, how come you don't see any eggrolls here? I also signed on for a fifth injection.

Medical differences here, alcohol isn't used, instead large swabs with an iodine solution are used for all disinfecting needs. The only trouble is it stains clothing. My underwear had what appeared to be a giant skid mark, but it was an iodine stain from the spinal. I hope it doesn't alarm the laundry man. Also with daily IVs, you'd think they'd leave a shunt in, but they poke me fresh daily. Nurses are so skilled they use the same hand painlessly, though. Acupuncture needles are inserted by hand, instead of tapped in through a tube. They are becoming morel conscious of the need for absolute sterility, hence my trip to a 'clean room' for the lumbar punch yesterday.

Two Austrian ladies are here together with their small children. I asked if they have to be sedated before the spinal. One said yes, but 2 year old son Benjamin is hard to keep still afterwards for six hours. I can imagine. 7 year old Mattia from Italy has a hard time in acupucture, looking like a pin cushion. It's these kids who are the brave ones.

Kathy wrote and said there was blue skies in Hong Kong which is only 45 minutes away. Hard to believe. She's back at home in St. Louis, nursing a sick husband and father-in-law, getting over her major jet lag.

I wondered how the stem cell procedures move forward before I came, but reading the blogs from earlier, it is apparent. They used to make you lie for only four hours, now six. There used to be two IV injections. Now only one, and the rest are spinal. Chinese herbs used to be served as a disgusting tea, now mixed in a daily IV. That is only what's apparent. There are probably other unseen procedures. 5000 year-old societies must do something right, except the pig's knuckles.

However, the stem cell treatment seems to be basically the same for all patients here. They differ in different techiques (someties surgical) at different hospitals in China, affiliated with various biotech companies, using different sorts of stem cells, derived from various sources (mine are cord blood - legal in the USA, but regulatory hurdles preclude human trials) They've been doing them here since 2001. Hal told me they're working on using placental stem cells, which are even more potent. I intend to return, if the money holds out. I expect progress on both our parts, even if it's meager. I'll be going to Qingdao up north, as Nanshan will become a children's ward by then.

Battery's running low. Till tomorrow.

DAY SEVENTEEN Oct. 3

Stem cell day. Around 2 PM. With any luck I'll finish the blog entry later tonight.

Feet seem to come and go. They are better during the day. They are very ticklish at night, like a buzzing. The texture of my socks bother me, but I'm bothered more when they are off. Still have about 75% improvement.

Can't eat or drink anything for 3 hours before spinal. Then will have to wait for at least 4 to 6 hours after to get up. It makes it simpler deciding where to eat!

Emails are OK now. Our Novaspace server was down for awhile. Sally's Hotmail account isn't affected. The official Holiday is the anniversary of the union, but locally, it's just the annual mid-autumn festival. It lasts a week, but most get only three days off.

Starting to cool off a little. Rained briefly the other day.

The nurse came in about 3 and told me they're ready.

LATER... The did the first injection in my room, but this time took me to my bed in another room. Much smoother this time. Only took 15 minutes. the only pain was the anesthetic and some new nurses tring (in vein, LOL) to give me an IV. Then they wheeled my bed and me back to my room, for the six hours on my back. "Listened" to a few movies, and then ate. Dr Yang, head of Neurology and the Lady Dr. (who gave me the injection) came in and saw to it I was OK, after the first few minutes. He asked about my feet (said he had been reading my blog), which at that point felt like blocks of ice, but still warm to the touch. Dr. Yang said to find him if I had any more concerns, and told me to get some sleep. The icy feet fortunately quit after a couple hours, along with an attack of restless legs. Maybe it was the Mirapex I took, maybe the stem cells, maybe both. I was glad it was gone, whatever. Moved around more than last time, but no ill effects, after six hours.

I see Dr. Shu again tomorrow.

DAY SIXTEEN Oct 2

It was too good to be true about my feet. They went dead again last night. Woke up some this morning. Maybe it was the pizza. They do feel better now, but it's hard to keep them feeling warm, even though they're warm to the touch.

Went down to voice today after my IV. At voice, Sunny came in and invited us to lunch at the Xin Tao hotel, where Kathy stayed. Very classy, but everything was Chinese. We took a long time orderimg, through Camillia, as Sally won't eat the meat or fish. Ordered, and then Camilia left. No Sunny either. The staff took pity on us trying to eat in vain with chopsticks, and brought out silverware.

Two things that have baffled us: No one uses napkins (which they never have anyway), and they don't add up the bill, which was in Chinese. The waitress got the manager who spoke English, and it still took awhile to get the total. We can't make anyone understand. Jon, you are missed here. Maybe you're supposed to carry your own napkins like you do your own toilet paper.

Stem cells tomorrow afternoon. Hope it goes easier than the last time. At least I know what to expect. Your body gets used to it, also, I hear. Thinking about getting a fifth injection. We'll be here long enough. It's an extra $2K.

The doctor came in and inquired about my feet. I wasn't sure what to say. She explained that the Chinese medicine IV was saline mixed with a nerve grower Which accounts for the yellowish color. Saline is clear. I get that IV every morning.

We're enjoying our vacation from work, too. They seem to be handling everything at Novaspace OK. We were worried.

The plan is to turn this into a children's ward, sand send the adults to Qingdao,, up north, where Jon lives. That's happening, as the common room is filled with toys, and children's laughter (and crying.)

Late at night now. Still can't get my email. I think our server is down again at home. My feet
are driving me bananas, and I can't breathe. I miss the light, dry air of home.

DAY FIFTEEN Oct. I
Well, it's official. After a 12-year absence, my feet are back. At least 75%. More at night, it seems.

Finally got some sleep last night. Sally says I'm going out with her today, later. Hal left this morning, but shoved a picture of himself under our door. Hal is a photograper, and bought a nice Nikon and a photo printer here. He's coming back in January.

Went food shopping at Wal-Mart. Took a cab. Ridiculously busy, because of the Holiday. The shopping carts are tiny, and they steer on all four wheels, making it a good exercize to keep it under control. Never saw another caucasian. There is an escalator of sorts to the second floor (groceries.) Actually, it's an inclined moving walkway. The carts have this gravity stopper on all the wheels, so they can be taken on the escalator. Lots of strange foods. About $23 for a week's worth of groceries.

We saw a few old textile factories on the way, but mostly 30 and 40 story highrse apartments. There are literally thousands, with cranes atop new ones everywhere.

Woke up this morning to a big Red Chinese pimple on my nose. Very attractive. That's what I get for overeating at Papa John's and McDonald's...but I need protein! MEAT...animal flesh. Rice and noodles are OK once in a while.

Kathy just arrived home in St. Louis with some bad jet lag. 17 time zones away. Despite the fact that China takes up 6 time zones, they observe the same time everywhere here.

Went out again to the DVD' "store" which is actually some guy selling DVDs out of a cart for less than a buck each.

Sunny came in today and said I'd been missing the doctor's rounds because I'm downstairs at physio every day (as I am scheduled) The nurses want to give me the Chinese medicine I.V. at this time, also. Seems somebody needs to get scheduling straight. I'm just following what has been told me. They get kind of impatient with laggards downstairs. I don't want to anger Dr.Shu, with a handful of acupuncture needles. He could literally pin me to the table! Actually I prefer him to his assistants, as I rarely even feel his needles. Sunny told me to go down at 11 instead of 9AM. Hopefully they'll get the word downstairs.

Sally tried to wake up one of the nurses from a nap. Turns out she is two months pregnant, and not feeling so good.

Till tomorrow...